We rented a cottage at Captain Cook Haven, about a 30‑minute walk from the town. Our little home for the week sat right at the foot of the Larpool Viaduct, which used to be a railway bridge in the 19th century and is now a peaceful walking and cycling path. It takes you straight into Whitby, and after just 20–30 minutes you can already smell the sea air, hear the seagulls arguing over chips, and feel that lively, seaside atmosphere that only a proper port town can offer.
Looking down over the harbour is the majestic Whitby Abbey. It may be a ruin, but it’s one of the most beautiful ruins I’ve ever seen. Before you reach it, you have to climb the famous 199 steps. It’s a rite of passage. If the steps aren’t an option for you, don’t worry, there’s a road and a bus route so everyone can enjoy the Abbey. I’ll write a separate post about it, because it truly deserves its own moment.
Once we’d filled our eyes with views, it was time to fill our stomachs. We’d already done our research and knew we wanted to try the Magpie Café, one of Whitby’s most loved fish and chip spots. It’s right by the harbour, and yes, you might have to queue, but that’s always a good sign. We waited around 20 minutes, though in peak season it might be longer. It was absolutely worth it. They also have a takeaway window if you’d rather eat on the beach. The menu goes far beyond the usual fish and chips; mussels, oysters, seafood platters, crab bisque, and more. And if you think you’re limited to fish and chips with haddock or cod, think again. Here your batter fish options to name a few: Sea bass, turbot, salmon, lemon sole… the list goes on.
With full bellies, we wandered through the charming, narrow streets lined with little shops. Whitby is known for its jet, the deep black stone found locally, and many jewellers sell beautiful handcrafted pieces. The area is also rich in fossils, so you’ll find shops full of local finds as well as pieces from around the world. As a fossil lover myself, I was in heaven. Crystals, ammonites, polished stones, all of it. And yes, I’ll tell you in another post where to go if you want to hunt for your own fossils. Did I find some? Of course I did. I’ll show you soon.
After exploring the windy streets, we decided it was time for a rest and a hot drink. I’d already done my research (naturally), so we headed to the Sherlock Café. It’s cosy, comfortable, and full of character. We kept it simple: English tea for the boy, hot chocolate for my daughter, and an oat milk latte for me. We shared a scone with jam and clotted cream, plus a slice of chocolate orange cake. Everything was delicious, and the service was lovely. A great little spot that I’d happily recommend.
And there you have it, my first Whitby blog post. I’ll be back soon with part two, where I’ll take you to the Whitby Lobster Hatchery, Fortune’s Kippers (a local delicacy), and the Whitby Museum.
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